Some people chase sunsets—I chase ceramic squares glued to buildings. Lisbon was our final stop after winding our way up from the Algarve, and as a known tile enthusiast (diagnosed by me), I was fully prepared to lose my mind in the best way. The city delivered.
It’s like someone let a poet design an entire capital using only blueprints and glazed pottery.
Every corner begged to be photographed, every staircase felt like a scene from a story I hadn’t read yet. And somehow, between the cardio-heavy hills and the suspiciously addictive custard tarts, Lisbon became the grand finale Portugal knew we needed.
“I came for the tiles. I stayed for the way the streets felt like sentences mid‑thought.”
A Brief History of the City That Refuses to Stay Down
“Lisbon is what happens when history stops fighting time and starts dancing with it.”
Lisbon is one of Europe’s oldest capitals—older than Paris, older than Rome, and just old enough to wear its age like a flex. Perched on seven hills and draped along the Tagus River, the city has been rebuilt, reimagined, and reborn more times than it probably cares to count. Its golden age hit in the 15th and 16th centuries, when Portuguese explorers set sail and returned with stories, spices, and questionable navigation skills that somehow shaped the world. And then, in 1755, came the earthquake—devastating much of the city and leaving behind not just rubble, but a deep imprint on Lisbon’s identity.
But true to form, Lisbon rose again—this time with wide boulevards, grid-like layouts, and a whole lot of neoclassical flair. The city you walk through today is part time capsule, part technicolor dream. Trams still rattle through neighborhoods that feel unchanged by time, while rooftop bars serve cocktails above streets that were once cart paths. You’ll find centuries layered like sediment—Moorish castles, Roman ruins, tiled churches, Brutalist leftovers, and the occasional ultra-modern mirage. Somehow, it all works. Lisbon isn’t trying to be sleek or polished; it’s magnetic in that slightly unbothered, sun-faded way—where the charm isn’t just in what’s preserved, but in how the city keeps letting itself evolve.
“After the earthquake, Lisbon didn’t just rebuild—it reimagined what beauty could look like.”
And speaking of corners—let’s talk about the one we called home for four days. Because as much as I came for the tiles, I wasn’t exactly mad about where we landed each night.
Where We Stayed: A Wes Anderson Dream With Room Service
We checked into the Hilton Curio House, which sounds vaguely mysterious but turned out to be a full-on girls trip fever dream—in the best way. Think palm-leaf wallpaper, velvet chairs in all the right jewel tones, and a color palette so pink-and-green chic it could’ve been plucked straight from a mood board labeled feminine but make it elevated.
It felt less like a hotel and more like the backdrop to a movie where someone accidentally falls in love with a stranger over pastel pastries and Aperol spritzes.
We booked it through the Amex Platinum Hotel Collection, which came with some very welcome perks: free breakfast (yes, I did get two cappuccinos every morning), a room upgrade with a view of the bridge, and a hotel credit we used like it was Monopoly money. The staff were as warm and welcoming as the light streaming through the lobby windows, and while the location wasn’t exactly in the heart of the action—it’s about a 20-minute walk to the old town center—it gave us just enough distance to decompress between stair climbs and sardine tastings.
Public transit was technically nearby, though we found it to be more of a suggestion than a reliable system. But honestly? The hotel was so lovely that we didn’t mind the extra steps. If you’re the kind of traveler who appreciates mood lighting, a well-timed towel restock, and the thrill of a room that looks like it was designed by a color theory major with excellent taste—this one’s for you.
What to Do in Lisbon (Besides Develop a Deep Emotional Attachment to Tiles)
Take a River Cruise (Bonus Points if It’s Slightly Unhinged)
In Porto, we took a serene, golden-hour cruise. In Lisbon, we… did the opposite. We booked a party boat. Think upbeat music, people dancing in linen, and drinks that arrived in varying levels of spillage depending on the wave situation. It was chaotic, delightful, and—surprisingly—still a fantastic way to see some of Lisbon’s most iconic monuments from the water. The views were unbeatable, the breeze was perfect, and at one point, we watched two freight ships literally crash into each other, which was somehow both alarming and hilarious. 10/10 for memory-making.
Visit the LX Factory—Twice
The LX Factory is Lisbon’s answer to “What if Pinterest was a neighborhood?” It’s an old industrial complex turned arts district, filled with creative shops, street art, and some of the coolest people you’ll pretend not to eavesdrop on. Go during the day to stroll, shop, and hunt for hidden murals—and then return at night when the lights flicker on and the whole place transforms into a mood. My favorite stops: Ler Devagar, the iconic bookstore with bookshelves that feel like architecture, and the origami/art shops tucked away on the second floor of the main building (a must if you collect paper goods or pretty things with no functional purpose).
See the Carmo Convent
Part open-air ruin, part hauntingly beautiful architectural relic, the Carmo Convent is one of the most powerful visual reminders of the 1755 earthquake. It’s one thing to read about the quake—it’s another to stand beneath the collapsed Gothic arches and feel history pressing in from above. It’s peaceful, eerie, and unforgettable.
“The Carmo Convent isn’t a ruin; it’s a prayer left unfinished.”
Take the Trams (Just Don’t Rely on Them)
You can’t come to Lisbon and not ride one of the cute antique trams. But here’s the secret: don’t wait for Tram 28 unless you’re doing it for the Instagram photo or enjoy standing in lines that move slower than the tram itself. It’s still part of the actual public transit system, which means it’s… not exactly punctual. We learned this the hard way while trying to get somewhere that, in hindsight, would’ve been faster on foot. For a better experience, hop on a lesser-known tram for a few scenic blocks and then hop off when the mood strikes.
Take the Elevador da Glória (and Do It Smartly)
The funicular Gloria is a classic Lisbon ride that hauls you up one of the steepest hills in the city—and honestly, your legs will thank you. Hot tip: instead of paying around €4 for a single ride, grab a 24-hour public transit pass for €7, which covers all trams, buses, metros, and the funicular. Use it guilt-free and often. Bonus: the street art around the Gloria line is an underrated photo op.
Learn About the Earthquake at Quake Museum
We didn’t fully understand just how much the 1755 earthquake shaped Lisbon until we visited Quake—The Lisbon Earthquake Museum, and now I recommend it to literally everyone. It’s one of the most engaging, immersive museums I’ve ever been to: beautifully designed, super interactive, and shockingly informative (pun semi-intended). There’s even a quake simulator, which I survived despite having vertigo and a long-standing fear of motion simulators. Great for kids, history buffs, and anyone who appreciates a well-executed museum that respects both the science and the storytelling.
Lose Yourself in the National Tile Museum
If you, too, identify as tile-obsessed, Museu Nacional do Azulejo is where you go to ascend to ceramic heaven. I dragged my husband through every single gallery while I audibly gasped at 15th-century border work. It’s housed in a beautiful old convent and traces the history of tile art from its Moorish origins to its modern-day evolution. If you have more time, they also offer tile-making workshops, and you can buy a combo ticket to include both. I regret not doing it, but I needed those hours to pet walls elsewhere.
Visit Livraria Bertrand—The World’s Oldest Bookstore
Book lovers, this one’s non-negotiable. Livraria Bertrand has been open since 1732 and holds the Guinness World Record for the oldest operating bookstore in the world. It’s charming without trying too hard, and unlike Livraria Lello in Porto (which we visited—link to that post coming soon), it wasn’t overrun with tourists or Instagrammers with tripods. I walked in, took a deep breath, and immediately considered moving in.
Catch the View at Miradouro de Santa Luzia
If you want that iconic Lisbon view—the kind where the terra cotta roofs tumble toward the water in layers—head to Santa Luzia. Just do it early. Like, painfully early. The lighting is best, the crowds are minimal, and you’ll avoid the harsh shadow lines that can really ruin an otherwise romantic moment with your camera.
See a Fado Show
Fado is Lisbon’s soundtrack—melancholic, haunting, and somehow deeply soothing. You don’t need to understand the lyrics to feel the ache in your ribs. Find a small, traditional venue (not one with big banners out front), order some vinho verde, and just let it wash over you.
Do a Food Tour
Last but not least: eat everything, and if you’re smart, let someone else plan the route. Food tours in Lisbon are fantastic, especially if you want to learn what not to order on a menu that’s 98% in Portuguese. Ours was packed with bites, stories, and surprisingly friendly strangers who, by the third stop, felt like friends. You’ll try sardines, cheeses, pastries, and maybe even some Ginjinha—a cherry liqueur that tastes like cough syrup if you’re not careful, but like liquid courage if you are.
What to Eat in Lisbon (Warning: You Will Want a Napkin)
Bifana
Start simple, start messy. A bifana is basically a garlic-marinated pork sandwich—a Portuguese late-night staple with the comfort level of a grilled cheese but 100% more swagger. Find it at tiny snack bars; wash it down with a cold lager and pretend you’re not wearing linen soaked in garlic sauce by the end.
Vinho Verde
Forget heavy reds—Vinho Verde is light, crisp, and just a touch effervescent (which is Portuguese for “makes you feel fancy with zero effort”). It’s perfect for your bifana or seafood rice, and it won’t weigh you down before your third tram ride of the day.
Piri‑Piri Sauce
This one packs heat. You’ll find grilled chicken, prawns, and fries all souped up in piri‑piri, a spicy chili sauce that’s as addictive as it is incendiary. Don’t be that tourist who begs for mild. Feel your sinuses burn—that’s part of the story.
Arroz de Marisco
Portugal’s answer to paella or risotto, but wetter and infinitely more brothy—Arroz de Marisco is a seafood rice stew brimming with shrimp, clams, mussels, all simmered in a saffron-and-garlic seafood stock. It’s served bubbling in the pan, so grab bread and mop it all up. No one’s judging.
Bolinhos de Bacalhau (Pataniscas)
These salty cod fritter balls are what I call “the Portuguese hush puppy.” Known locally as pataniscas, they’re crunchy globes of cod, onion, and flour that somehow feel indulgent at 11 a.m. or 2 a.m. Textbook travel snack.
Pastel de Nata from the Oldest Bakery
Yes, we’re talking Pastéis de Belém level. The flaky custard tarts from the original Belém bakery are legendary—crackling-crisp crust, smokey custard center, dusted with cinnamon. You’ll want to eat it in two bites and ask for more.
Tips for Thriving in a City That Doesn’t Care if You’re Late
Lisbon was magic—sun-faded, tile-glazed, pastry-filled magic. But as with any love story, there were a few plot twists along the way that are worth passing on before you lace up your walking shoes and head toward the nearest miradouro.
Lisbon Trams and Transit
Public transit in Lisbon has big “we’ll get there when we get there” energy. Buses often ran 30–60 minutes late (both in the city center and the outer neighborhoods), and the trams were even worse—sometimes skipping entire routes like they were improvising their own daily schedules. Don’t build your itinerary around a 12:30 tram unless you enjoy developing character.
“Lisbon runs on elastic time—late buses, soft mornings, golden hours that stretch.”
Don’t Climb Every Mountain
Use the city’s many funiculars to your advantage. These little hill-climbing heroes are built into Lisbon’s geography for a reason. We found that starting the day at the top of a funicular and working our way down made everything feel intentional instead of like we were simply… surrendering to gravity.
Be cautious of the TukTuks
Tuk-tuk drivers are everywhere, and while they may seem friendly at first—beware. Polite eye contact is basically seen as a legally binding contract. We made the mistake of chatting with one and were followed for three blocks while he listed every possible route and price point like a human Expedia. Save yourself the drama. Smile with your eyes, not your words.
Plan Your Visit in Advance
Double check opening hours. Lisbon marches to its own rhythm, and that rhythm sometimes skips Sundays… or Mondays… or both. Nothing hurts quite like climbing a hill in the sun just to find a handwritten “Fechado” sign taped to the door. Trust me.
So yes, Lisbon will test your patience a little. The buses will ignore your schedule, the hills will mock your cardio, and at some point, a tuk-tuk driver will emotionally latch onto you like a Portuguese limpet. But that’s part of the charm. Lisbon isn’t interested in being convenient—it’s too busy being itself. Which means the best thing you can do is loosen your grip, ditch the rigid plans, and let the city lead. She always has a better idea, anyway.
Lisbon has a way of unfolding slowly—like a book written in winding streets, burnt sugar, and unexpected detours. So don’t rush. Let yourself get a little lost, sweat through your linen, and fall for a city that doesn’t try too hard because it doesn’t have to. The magic’s already there.
